G5010 Band Saw

Take a look at this website then check out the pictures here. This is a China rip off imported by Lathemaster. Lathemaster calls it the model G5010 Benchtop Bandsaw. Even though it is from China, my first impression is that it is a nice solid benchtop bandsaw.

The capacity is about 4 inch width and height material. The saw blade is one inch from the vice. So this sets a limitation on how short a piece you can hold in the vice. The saw is intended to be a cut-off saw so this is not bad. I like the extra width on the right side to "catch" the cut off. There is also two built-in material rests, one on the swivel base and one clearly visible here on the right edge. This bench is just 19 inches deep. The saw fits and will work in this location...

...but I do have to move it out a bit to cut on a 45. However, it only weighs about 45 pounds and can be moved to another bench if I need more cutting room. I think for most of my cutting, it will be just fine on this bench. The back (painted black) cover is a very sturdy stamped steel made in one piece.

These are some steel rods that can be attached to set a stop for repetitive length cuts. I also installed the supplied rubber feet for this shot.

These are the motor end blade guide bearings. The left and right bearings are actually two bearings stacked one above the other. The back (top) edge bearing is a single ball bearing.

This is the adjustable guide and bearings. It doesn't show here but there is a back edge bearing in the guide. The stock blade is the usual low cost fine tooth plain steel. I intend to replace is very soon with a quality 44 7/8" x 1/2" portable bandsaw blade.

The vice is machined steel. Simple design but very sturdy. The cut backs on this end are to provide clearance for the saw body when doing a miter cut.

This is the tension end of the saw. The red arrow is actually on the wheel. This bearing is a plain bushing bearing. When I took it apart (see below) I didn't feel any grease in the bearing or on the shaft. I put a light coat on both the shaft and in the bearing. I suggest other owners of this saw lube this bearing when changing blades.

This is the blade tension mechanism and works smoothly even though there is almost no indication of lubrication.

This is the motor end. Note the aluminum casting is quite heavy and thick on the frame. The wheels are also heavy wall. The tires look to be molded on.

I have removed the motor end wheel. The thread shown in left handed. I did not remove the gear cover as the Chinglish instructions say the transmission is long life lubricated. I didn't want to break the seal as the rubber gasket is painted in. The bearing at this end is a ball bearing. The drawings show bearings on all shafts but I cannot say if they are all ball bearings. There are two gears and their location can be seen above from the 'bumps" in the gear cover..

Here you can see a series of holes to let the sawing chips fall out. Some chips do make the round trip through the saw, but most fall out in a nice little pile right here.

A good shot of the motor shows it is 1.5 Kw and 5 amps at 110 volts AC. That's only 550 watts in my math book. It would have to be 13.6 amps to rate that many watts at 110 volts. The book says 1500 watts with 220 Volts at 5 amps, 50 Hz.. That's more like 1100 watts. (Yes, I know. Motor inductance isn't pure P=EI but it gets us in the ball park.) I suspect this motor draws more than five amps under load. More like ten. After I break it in for awhile (the brushes are not yet set-in), I'll load it up and see what it pulls. Probably 10 amps. I suspect it is about a 1 HP motor to us USA folks.

The speed control is indexed in meters per minute. I guess all my cuts will have to measured in metric. Just joking... honest!

This is a latch lever so the user can lock the arm down for carrying the saw. There is a pretty good balance if I grab the saw at the center of the arm.